Our trip to Isle of Pines, New Calendonia.

This is a little out of order as I had problems getting a connection before we left New Caledonia. But we had such a great time we still want to share what happened with you.

The Isle of Pines is south of the main island Grande Terre in New Caledonia. On the way down we stopped in Baie de Prony. This is an eerie kind of place but quite beautiful. The Kanack people refuse to live near because, in past many battles were fought in the bay and they believe there are too many warrior ghosts around. It cetainly has that feel about it. It was also stripped of its trees to built the first houses in Noumea. Now the bush is starting to regenerate.

We sailed up to the very end so that we could have a dip in a natural fresh water pool built in the bush by a river. It was lovely and refreshing.

Both Lindsay and I were woken up during the night with strange noises which we took to be large fish jumping. Early next morning while weighing anchor Hamish and Lindsay saw a 10ft hammerhead shark swimming beside the boat. It was about ¼ the length of the boat. As we motored down the bay we saw a large turtle swim past too.

In fact it turned out to be the best day for sea creature spotting we have had. Later that day we had common pacific dolphins swimming at our bow. This was the first lot we have seen since NZ. But wait there’s more! As we approached Isle de Pins we saw in the distance whales leaping out of the water – what a display as they leapt clear and also slapped their tails. Although it would have been spectacular to see close up I was secretly glad that they were so far off.

We stayed in a lovely white sandy bay called Bay de Kuto. Hamish and Kate enjoyed snorkelling and turtle spotting as there were about 5 turtles swimming around. The best part was when they got towed behind our dinghy on their boogie boards by their father. The weather was pleasantly warm although we had to motor sail most of the way back to Noumea due of lack of wind.

We then had to prepare for our last big ocean passage for a while. There was a lot to do. I made and froze 5 dinners, bought provisions to last the 6-7 day trip, caught up with all the washing, Hamish and Kate completed as much school work as they could and we posted it off. Lindsay built a cover for our new generator and there were lots of forms to fill out for both New Caledonian and Australian Officials.

Pics from Isle de Pines

Being dragged though the water on the back of the dinghy

Hamish hand feeding seagulls in Kuta Bay.

There were three or four of these strange shark like fish called Remoras under our boat. They loved the bread that Hamish and Kate threw overboard for them.

Guess who took this photo? Hamish is becoming more and more confident snorkelling. He spent ages exploring the rocks and reef in Kuta Bay.

Arrived in Australia!

We have just arrived in Bundaberg, Australia. The passage from Noumea took 6 days. There were 2 days of very light winds and the rest was nice comfortable sailing. The night before we arrrived we watched a lightening storm over the horizon. That was close enough thank you!

People have asked what sort of things do we do on passage. If the weather is fine and the sea flat the children do school work. If not we read, watch DVD's, play on Nintedo's, read, fish (no luck since Fiji), do cooking, eat, do dishes, spot sea life and identify them (saw Brown Boobies and our first Pelican today), read, keep a look out and try to keep comfortable. Pretty much the same sorts of things we did when we sailed around the coast of NZ.

This trip was a very nice trip but as Hamsih said it seemed to go on forever - he was beginning to think Oz was a myth. But he was the first to see it. Now we are here and when the welcome party of thunder and lightening let up (thank goodness it started after we arrived) we are keen to go exploring. Stay tuned for some photos.

Noumea and Isle of Pines

We have had a fantastic time in the Isle of Pines. It is an island 60 miles south of Noumea.

Oh la la!

Bon Jour from New Caledonia!
We arrived in Noumea after a 2 day 6 hour passage. It started off a little lumpy as the wind was coming from the south. I found out “Sturgeron” sea sickness tablets aren’t as good for me as “Sea Legs” but late in day two I recovered. Everyone else was fine. No fish this time as we thought the trip too short to bother.
Noumea is different from Vanuatu because it is further south. The weather is refreshingly cool – a bit like a New Zealand summer. The trees are a mix of tropical and pine trees. An unusual place with rusty red earth because of nickel and other mineral deposits.

Hamish took this as we came into Noumea.

I noticed that the buildings were fairly new and when we went out to a friend’s place for diner he said his house was in the old part of town. Their house was built in the 1960’s. It is a mini France here, every thing is in French but most people can speak some English and with my limited French we manage ok. I REALLY wish I had taken my 3rd an 4th form French further!

It is true that it is the people that make a place and we have been very fortunate to have met some neat people here. Last Saturday we visited the Aquarium. Someone said you could walk there from the marina others said it was a bit of a hike about 20 minutes, anyway we set off as it was a beach front walk and it turned out to be a huge walk. After 20 minutes we stopped a young couple who out with their toddler. They did not speak English very well but said it was about another 20-30 minutes away! We opted for the bus and just missed one when there was a toot. It was the man who we had just spoken to. He had gone and got his ute and come back to pick us up. He took us to the Aquarium – what a nice person!!! It was a 5 minute car trip but saved us slogging in the heat. We got a taxi back.

The Aquarium is outstanding we went round it twice. There were so many amazingly different fish. The best was a Napolean fish. It had such an expressive face. The colours of the coral were incredible. We are itching to get out and explore for ourselves.

We are currently in port getting some work done on the boat. The battery charger is on the blink and Lindsay has other jobs to do to get sorted before we head to Australia. We have been very lucky to meet up with some friends who live here and have given us the benefit of their local knowledge for getting things done.

Dad paints the hull while Hamish and Kate paint the oars (and did a fine job!).

Port Vila

A Fijian Igauna at the Secret Gardens.

A Pacific Boa - Hamish was the only one brave enough to have a hold of it.

Throughout the gardens there were lots of these posters telling stories and legends from all over Vanuatu. This one I thought was a good warning to Lindsay!

The famous Seafood Chowder in an Edible Bowl. The reason we came to Vanuatu! (Also the place where I caught my tummy bug.)

Moored along the small sea wall while sorting out the generator. It was scary climbing the plank to get on and off.

A venemous Lion fish (we think) that wondered by the sea wall right by Blue Heron.

Kiwi friends Thomas and Olivia. On the odd occasion that they were not all swimming or zipping round in dinghies.

We had thought to be in Noumea about now. Sadly I was struck down with a violent tummy bug on Saturday, the day that we were supposed to depart (we had cleared customs as well). The lesson learned here was that it is not a good idea to go out for dinner 2 days before an ocean passage, especially in a hot, humid country like Vanuatu.

The next day I was able to keep water inside me but couldn’t eat. I still had a killer headache and was pretty washed out. The weather was indicating a lot of wind and rough seas for the first third of the trip and then no wind and likely still rough seas – not good with an upset tum. We had been ok abut the trip as the boat is comfortable and goes well to windward.

It all became academic anyway as on the Sunday Lindsay had trouble starting the generator after about 1 and a half hours swearing and tinkering he got it started but after about half an hour it suddenly stopped pumping water through it. It is salt water cooled. Turned off and checked the sea strainer and sure enough a large guey leaf had been sucked up. Problem fixed and it started first crank!

He was monitoring it as he packed some things away in preparation for the passage to Noumea. Five minutes after checking it the silly thing again stopped pumping water and suddenly our cabin smelt of burning rubber. Yet again he stopped the engine. This time the sea strainer was clear and possibly a blockage further along the system. He worked in the 30+ degree heat to fix it but it now appears to have died. Part of us was devastated as we have no alternative charging for the boat other than a small solar panel. The other part is glad as it has been nothing but a pain since we bought the boat. We have had it overhauled twice and the last time we were told it had over 2000 hours and we have done about 200 of that. It was leaking oil badly and has always been noisy.

So we have come back to the wall in port and plugged into shore power. We have bought a small petrol generator which is sited outside and also got another larger solar panel. We were always intending to put solar panels on but were planning on doing that in Australia.

Somethings are meant to be as we have met some nice people while on the wall including some seasoned yachties who have given us heaps of good advice about New Caledonia and Australia. Kate and Hamish have met new friends and are enjoying the extra time here. We have been given a Bill Bryson book on Australia which is very funny and informative.

In addition the weather is looking better for the trip tomorrow. I am feeling about 100% fit again and looking forward to New Calendonia.